6 7 Cummins Cab And Chassis Egr Delete

You went looking for an EGR delete for your chassis cab and found instructions written for a pickup. That stops a lot of guys right there.

It should not. A flatbed behind the cab does not move the EGR loop, does not change what the soot does to it, and does not change what has to come off to get rid of it. What changes is which document answers which question. That is worth ten minutes on the floor before a single bolt comes loose.

Here's the thing — a body style is not an engine. Let's break it down: which trucks are covered, what a 4500 or 5500 actually changes, what comes in the box, and what the job asks of you.

Which 6.7L Cummins Trucks Does This EGR Delete Kit Actually Fit?

The EGR Delete Kit is a 6.7L Cummins part, and the split that matters is body style. It fits 2010 through 2024 Ram 2500, 3500, 4500, and 5500 with the 6.7L Cummins (Pick-Up 2010–2024, Cab & Chassis 2013–2024) and does not fit 5.9L Cummins engines. The 2025 Cummins 6.7-liter Turbo Diesel will be offered in Ram 3500, 4500 and 5500 Chassis Cab trucks.^[1]

Reading Your Model Year and Body Style Off Your Own Truck

Two brackets, two answers. Which one does your truck sit in?

Your model year is on the door jamb sticker, not on the title and not on what the previous owner told you. Build dates straddle calendar years, and a truck sold in the spring can carry the following model year on that sticker. Check it first. It takes thirty seconds and it settles the whole question before anything else has to.

Body style is easier. If there is a bed bolted to the frame, you are a pick-up. If the frame runs out bare behind the cab, or carries a flatbed, a service body or a dump, you are cab and chassis. Nobody has ever gotten that one wrong on the floor.

Where the Fitment List Stops

Not every Cummins is on the list, and the line is drawn at displacement rather than at model year. The older 5.9 is a different engine with a different air path, and a kit cut for the 6.7 does not translate to it. That is the one exclusion worth stating out loud, because it is the mistake that actually costs people money.

Everything else in the coverage above is about which year and which body style. The engine question is already settled the moment you read the badge. Ram was the first to achieve the 1,000 lb.-ft. of torque milestone with the Cummins I-6 Turbo Diesel, now rated at a best-in-class 1,075 lb.-ft. of torque.^[2]

What a 2013 Cutoff Means on a Used Chassis Cab

Cab and chassis coverage runs 2013 through 2024. If a used 4500 or 5500 is on your short list and the delete is part of the plan for it, that number belongs in the decision rather than in the regret pile afterwards.

An older chassis cab is a solid truck. It is simply not the truck this kit was cut for, and knowing that while the box is still sealed saves you a return trip. Read the sticker, then decide.

The used market is where this bites hardest, because a listing tells you what somebody typed and a door jamb tells you what the factory built. Those two disagree more often than you would think. Trust the sticker.

Is a Cab and Chassis 4500 or 5500 Different From a Pickup Here?

The Chassis Cab has its own 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel listing for 2019.^[3] A 3500 Chassis Cab with the Aisin automatic is rated at 360 horsepower and 800 lb-ft.^[3] Compacted Graphite Iron in the block increases cylinder pressure capability while reducing overall weight by almost 60 lbs.^[3] A 2013-2018 Ram Cummins EGR delete instruction set is published. That set is marked pick up model only.

So the chassis cab is not a trim level with a longer frame. It is its own application, documented as its own application, with its own rating.

How the Instruction Library Is Bracketed by Model Year

The written instructions are organised by generation, and each generation gets its own page. A 2007-2009 Ram Cummins EGR delete instruction set is published. A 2010-2012 Ram Cummins EGR delete instruction set is published. A 2019-2021 Ram Cummins EGR delete instruction set is published.

Four brackets, four documents. Find yours before you start pulling clamps, so you're not hunting for a PDF with your hands full.

What the Pick Up Wording Does and Does Not Tell You

Here is where guys talk themselves out of a kit that fits their truck. That wording is a note about the document. It tells you which body style the photographs and the step order were shot on, and it is not the record that decides whether the parts bolt to your engine.

Think of it like a service manual printed for the crew cab when you own the mega cab. The bolts did not move. The pictures did.

Read it for what it claims and nothing more. It tells you which truck was on the lift when the pictures were taken. It does not tell you which trucks the kit covers, and it was never written to.

That is the whole reading. One line, one job, and the coverage question answered somewhere else entirely.

Which Record Answers "Does It Fit"

Two records, two jobs, and mixing them up is the whole confusion. The coverage at the top of this page is the fitment record, and fitment is the record that answers whether the kit is for your truck.

The instruction set answers a different question — what the job looked like on the truck it was documented on. Ask each record what it is actually for and the contradiction disappears.

What Does the EGR System Do on the 6.7L Cummins?

The EGR system reroutes hot exhaust gases back into your intake manifold, and those gases carry soot. Over thousands of miles that soot coats the intake and clogs the EGR valve. To operate effectively and safely, the engine must continuously deliver air, fuel and lubrication to the cylinders.^[5] Cummins engines have been an option in RAM pickups since 1989.^[4]

The Cummins 6.7-liter engine’s EGR system is water cooled, with the air reintroduced into the intake system, keeping turbo and intercooler components clean, which increases the engine’s durability.^[7] Common rail fuel systems revolutionize the diesel fuel injection process in modern engines, significantly improving performance, fuel economy, and emissions control.^[6]

Where the Soot Actually Collects

Soot does not spread itself evenly. It builds where the flow slows down and where the metal is coldest, which means the valve, the cooler passages and the throat of the intake.

Picture pouring gravy back through a clean air hose, over and over, for years. Nothing dramatic happens on any single pass. Then one day the hose is half its old diameter, the engine is fighting for every breath it takes, and the loop is still running.

A chassis cab makes that worse rather than better. Long idle stretches, heavy work, low ground speed with the engine loaded — that is the duty cycle that lays soot down fastest, and it is exactly how a 4500 or 5500 spends its life. The truck that works hardest builds the thickest deposits.

Pull the intake on a high-hour work truck and you will see it. Not a film. A crust.

The Early Symptoms Owners Notice First

Nobody wakes up to a dead EGR valve. It creeps.

The throttle goes soft off idle. The turbo takes a beat longer to come alive than it used to. Cold starts get rougher, and the truck feels heavier under load than the pedal says it should. Most owners write the first two off as a bad week, and by the time the codes land the intake has been closing up for a long while.

Why Heat Is the Part That Costs the Most

Your turbo is a variable geometry turbocharger, and it is already in the middle of this story. VGTs offer versatile optimization across engine speeds and loads, aiding engine braking, exhaust gas recirculation and thermal management.^[8]

So which part of this actually writes the check?

Heat. Soot is an inconvenience, but heat with nowhere to go is what warps, cracks and lets go, and it is the reason this job gets done at the source instead of one component at a time. Clean the valve and you have bought yourself a season. The gas is still coming back, still hot, still carrying the same load. That is the difference between servicing a problem and ending one.

What Comes in the EGR Delete Kit?

The kit physically blocks off the EGR system so exhaust gases stay where they belong, and it includes a throttle valve delete for increased airflow, quicker turbo spool, and lower EGTs. You get the complete EGR delete kit, the throttle valve delete, all hardware and gaskets, and a DIY-friendly step-by-step guide.

Checking the Box Against the Parts List on Arrival

Open the box the day it lands, not the morning you planned to start.

The EGR Delete Kit includes all hardware and gaskets. That matters more than it sounds like it does, because the small stuff is what strands a job halfway through — one gasket short and the truck sits on stands until Tuesday. Ten minutes on the bench beats an hour on your back.

Lay everything out on a clean bench and count it against the guide before anything comes off the engine. Photograph the layout while you are at it. If something is genuinely missing, a picture of what did arrive turns a week of back and forth into one message. Then start.

What the Throttle Valve Delete Is Doing in an EGR Kit

A lot of guys assume the throttle valve is somebody else's problem. It is not.

That valve sits right where the air has to move, and it is still a restriction after the loop is gone. Leaving it in place is like fixing one side of a leaky roof and walking away from the other. You did the work. You just left half the gain on the ground.

There is a practical reason it ships in the same box, too. Both pieces live in the same corner of the engine, they come off in the same session, and doing them together costs you one teardown instead of two. Nobody wants to be back in there in six months for a part that was sitting on the shelf the first time.

One session, one gasket set, one job done.

What Should You Expect During Installation?

Install usually takes 3–5 hours with basic hand tools, no welding, and a compatible delete tune is required to prevent codes. The first thing to do is verify you have all the parts shown. The written instructions download as a PDF. Installation videos are provided for reference.

The Tools the Job Actually Needs

No welder, no press, no shop lift. Doable in your own shop, then? That is exactly the point of the hand-tool line above.

Metric sockets and a decent ratchet, a set of extensions long enough to reach past the manifold, a torque wrench, penetrating oil and a wire brush cover most of it. A second set of hands helps at exactly two points and is optional the rest of the way. Budget the high end of that hour range the first time you do one.

Two things are worth having that nobody puts on a tool list. A shop light you can actually aim, because half this job is done by feel in a space you cannot see into. And a magnet on a stick, because the bolt you drop will land somewhere you cannot reach with fingers.

Ask anyone who has done one. The magnet earns its keep.

Inventorying the Kit Before a Single Bolt Comes Off

Your parts may look slightly different depending on the version you got. That is normal, and it is not a reason to stop.

Match by function rather than by photograph. A block-off plate is a block-off plate whether the finish is bare or coated. What you are actually checking is that the count is right and nothing came out of the box damaged, because that is the only thing you cannot fix at midnight.

Getting the Tune Sorted Before the Install, Not After

This is the step people leave until last, and it is the one that costs them a weekend. The tune is not an accessory. It is a prerequisite, and it belongs handled before the wrenches come out, not sorted on a Sunday night with a truck sitting in pieces. Get it in hand first. The install goes from a project to an afternoon.

Sequence it like this. Tune sorted, parts inventoried, instructions open on the bench, and only then does the first clamp come loose. Guys who work in that order finish inside the window. Guys who improvise the order are the ones who end up with a truck on stands waiting for something to arrive.

We get it — nobody enjoys the admin half. It is still the half that decides how your weekend goes.

When Your Body Style Is Not the One in the Instructions

You will hit this on a 4500 or 5500, and it is worth knowing what to do with it rather than guessing.

Work the fitment record for coverage and the instruction set for procedure. Where the photographs show a body style that is not yours, follow the sequence and read the locations off your own truck. And if you are not sure which bracket your cab sits in, call (888) 830-2588 before you start rather than after.

Nobody at that number is going to make you feel dumb for asking. The paperwork on these trucks is genuinely confusing, and one call settles in a minute what an hour of reading will not.

What Does the EGR Delete Kit Cost?

The EGR Delete Kit is priced from $299.00 to $380.00. A failing EGR system can lead to overheating, head gasket damage, poor fuel economy, limp mode, and expensive repairs, often over $2,000 if left unresolved. Free shipping. Unused kits are returnable within 30 days; once installed, returns are not accepted.

EGR Delete | Dodge 6.7L Cummins Diesel 2010-2024

It's the best-selling Ram Cummins EGR delete kit. That is not a small thing on a platform where half the parts on the shelf were designed for a different truck and adapted afterwards.

Where the Price Band Comes From

The spread is real and it is not a sale timer. Different brackets take different hardware, so the number lands where your truck lands.

You are not being quoted a range because nobody knows. You are being quoted a range because an early pick-up and a late chassis cab are not shopping for the same box of parts. Pin your own truck down and the band collapses to a single number.

The Repair Figure the Kit Is Measured Against

Now run the arithmetic yourself, because it is the only comparison that decides this. One repair on the high side of that failure list buys the kit several times over, and the failure list is not hypothetical on a truck with soot in the intake. That is the whole case. No projected savings, no payback period, no numbers anybody made up — one repair you did not have to do, and bang for your buck on this platform is hard to beat.

What the Return Window Means Once You Have Started

The window is honest and it is worth reading before you commit. An unused kit can go back. An installed kit cannot, and that is standard for hard parts that have been torqued down and gasketed. So do the fitment check while the box is still sealed. That is the entire trick.

It also tells you the order to work in. Confirm the year and the body style, open the box, count the parts, and only then commit to the teardown. Every one of those steps is reversible until the last one. Guys who get burned here almost always skipped straight to the wrenches.

Sealed box, free decision. Torqued bolts, made decision.

Is This the Right EGR Delete Kit for Your Build?

The EGR Delete Kit for 2010–2024 Ram 6.7 Cummins permanently removes the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system, stopping the soot buildup, valve clogging, and heat that make the EGR a common failure point on these trucks. Severe service that includes off-road use may reduce oil change intervals.^[9] Maintenance intervals for fuel filter replacement remain at 15,000 miles.^[3]

The Build This Kit Is Aimed At

For a 2013 through 2024 cab and chassis 4500 or 5500 on the 6.7L Cummins, this is the kit to run. One product covers this platform and it covers your body style, so the decision is a fitment decision rather than a shootout between two boxes.

This kit removes the EGR at the source instead of chasing the symptoms. That is the difference between a fix and a delay.

Who is it not for? Anybody outside that coverage window, and anybody who has not sorted a tune. Neither of those is a judgement about your truck. They are just the two conditions that decide whether this box is the right box, and both of them are answerable in about a minute.

What Changes About Your Service Routine

A hard-worked chassis cab is not serviced on the same rhythm as a truck that sits. Severe duty is severe duty, and the interval that matters most is the oil. Keep the fuel filter schedule where it already is and stay honest about the oil, especially on a rig that spends its life in the dirt. Nothing about the delete relaxes either one, and taking care of a workhorse is still how you keep one.

The Last Fitment Check Before You Buy

One last pass, and it is the same three things every time.

Model year off the door jamb. Body style off the frame behind the cab. Engine badge on the side of the hood. Match all three against the table at the top of this page and you are done deciding.

Get those right and the rest of this job is just wrenching.