6.7 Powerstroke Cab and Chassis Delete Kit: Fitment, Parts & Install

Why Does a Cab and Chassis Ford Need Its Own Delete Kit?

Cab & chassis trucks are under load more often, towing heavier, and putting more hours on the engine than a standard pickup ever sees.^[1] These trucks have different frame and body dimensions from standard pickups, so minor pipe modifications may be required.^[1] The EGR portion should be the same as pickup models.

What a chassis-cab truck asks of its engine

We get it. Nobody builds up a cab & chassis Ford just to let it sit. It goes to work, and it stays there.

Think about what yours carried last week. A loaded flatbed, a trailer hooked up behind it, and a few long stretches at idle while the crew ran equipment off the back of the truck. That's a hard life for any engine.

So everything you bolt to it has to keep up. A part that just gets by on a pickup gets found out fast on a truck like yours. It's work boots versus sneakers: both are shoes, but only one of them survives a week on the job site.

Here's the thing — the engine doesn't know what's mounted behind the cab. It only knows the load and the hours. Yours piles up plenty of both.

Why model-specific kits matter

A lot of guys assume a delete kit is a delete kit. Same engine, same parts, right? Not quite.

The cab and the engine might look familiar, but the truck around them isn't a pickup. That's not a small detail. Matching the kit to the truck you actually own, rather than the one parked next to it in the yard, saves you a long afternoon of guesswork and a pile of parts that almost fit.

Why the exhaust side differs from a pickup

So where does a pickup kit go wrong on your truck? Underneath it. The exhaust has to live on that frame, so the pipe section is the part to watch.

Be ready for a little fitting work on the DPF/CAT section. Nobody likes surprises halfway through a job, and knowing this before the truck goes up on stands is half the battle. It keeps you from stopping mid-install to figure out why a pipe won't line up.

Minor is the word that matters. Don't let it scare you off a kit that's right for your frame.

What stays the same as a pickup

The good news? The EGR half of the job should look just like it does on a pickup. That's one less thing to puzzle over.

So the real difference comes down to the exhaust run. Match the kit to the frame, and the rest of the job feels familiar.

That's the whole case for a kit built around a cab & chassis truck. Before anything else, pin down two details: your model year and your engine. Let's break it down.

Which Years and Engines Does the Cab and Chassis Bundle Fit?

The Cab & Chassis Ford Powerstroke Full Delete Bundle spans model years 2008 to 2019 and two engines, the 6.4L and the 6.7L Powerstroke. It fits 2008–2010 Ford 6.4L Powerstroke and 2011–2019 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke in cab & chassis configuration; select your year at checkout.^[1] The bundle is priced from $2,584 to $2,764.

Reading the model year and engine off your own truck

Don't guess on this one. Two trucks that look alike parked side by side in the yard can sit in different brackets, and the only way to know for sure is to check yours. Pull the paperwork, look at what's actually under the hood, and confirm the engine before you pick a year.

Which bracket does your truck sit in? The table above answers that in one look, as long as you know your year. A bed or body swap somewhere along the way doesn't change a thing, because the year and the engine are still the details that decide where you land.

The 6.4L years and the 6.7L years

The split is clean, and the table shows exactly where it falls. Know which side of that line your truck sits on before you go any further. If you're running a 6.4L, the regen section below is going to hit close to home.

Picking your year at checkout

Pick the year your truck actually is, not the year you think it is. It takes a minute to check against your paperwork, and that minute is a lot cheaper than sorting out the wrong choice after the box shows up at your door.

Not sure which bracket your truck sits in? Call us at (888) 830-2588 before you order, and we'll help you sort it out.

What's Included in the Cab and Chassis Full Delete Bundle?

The Cab & Chassis Ford Powerstroke Full Delete Bundle includes the EZ Lynk Delete Tuner and all required accessories. On the exhaust side, the bundle includes a 4” Stainless Steel Rust Resistant DPF & CAT Delete Pipe. The bundle includes the EGR delete kit where applicable.^[1]

The delete pipe

Start with the big piece. The pipe in this bundle is a 4” Stainless Steel Rust Resistant DPF & CAT Delete Pipe. On a truck that lives outside and works in the mud, rust resistance is worth having.

The bundle includes the delete pipe with or without a muffler.^[1] That one's your call, and it comes down to how you like your truck to sound while it works.

The tuner, hardware and guide

Then there's the brains of the operation: the EZ Lynk Delete Tuner and all required accessories. The bundle includes all hardware and gaskets and a step-by-step guide.^[1] That's one less run to the parts store with the truck half apart on stands.

The guide earns its place on a chassis-cab truck, because it keeps the order of work straight when you're juggling a tune, a pipe and, where it applies, an EGR kit on the same job. Keep it somewhere you can see it.

Checking the box before you start

Lay every piece out before a single bolt comes off the truck. Match it against the list above, and reach out if anything looks off. Set the tuner somewhere clean and dry, too. Ten minutes on the floor beats an hour on your back.

What Does the Bundle Remove, and How Does the Tuner Work?

The Cab & Chassis Ford Powerstroke Full Delete Bundle for 2008–2019 trucks removes the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter), EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation), and DEF (Diesel Exhaust Fluid) systems from your work truck.^[1] The bundle clears every "See Dealer" code, check engine light, and limp mode trigger that takes a cab & chassis off the job.^[1] The tuner comes with custom tunes for your year and model.^[1]

The three systems that come off

Three systems, one box. This bundle strips the emissions system out of the equation.^[1] It's like clearing the clutter off a workbench: once the junk is gone, the job in front of you gets a lot simpler.

Start with the DPF, the piece most guys picture first. The DPF looks similar to a traditional exhaust catalyst, except larger, and is part of the exhaust system under the vehicle.^[2]

The codes and warnings that clear

You know the feeling. A "See Dealer" message pops up on the dash, and the plan for the day goes straight out the window. Limp mode is the worst of the bunch, because a truck that won't make power is a truck parked while the crew waits on it.

Plenty of owners figure the pipe is the whole job. Here's the problem with that: a pipe on its own is not a kit. Every one of those warnings is the truck asking for something, and on a working truck the timing is never convenient.

Why the tune is matched to your year

Remember the year you picked at checkout? This is where it pays off. A tune built for your exact truck beats one that's merely close enough, every time.

Close enough isn't good enough on a truck that earns its keep. Take the extra minute and get the year right.

What Does a Regen Cycle Cost a Working Truck?

The 6.4L Power Stroke came with a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF), a two-stage turbocharger, and an enhanced Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system.^[2] Once the DPF is full, the engine control module commands the exhaust system to clean it through a process called regeneration.^[2] Regeneration frequency varies from 100 to 668 miles between occurrences, and each occurrence lasts 10 to 40 minutes.^[2]

What regeneration does

The DPF is an inline filter in the exhaust system that traps exhaust particles before they reach the tailpipe.^[2] Think of it like the bag on a shop vac: it does its job right up until it's packed solid. Once it's packed, something has to give.

Heat brings its own rules too. Do not park, idle, or drive your vehicle in dry grass or other dry ground cover.^[2] On a ranch, a brushy work site or an off-road rig, that's a real limit on where the truck can sit.

How often it runs and for how long

Run those numbers against a working week. A regen can come around as often as every 100 miles, and it can run as long as 40 minutes once it starts.^[2] Both the timing and the length depend on how you drive, the outside air temperature and altitude.^[2]

The vehicle operator has to drive the vehicle above 30 mph (48 km/h) for at least 20 minutes to clean the DPF.^[2] On a truck that spends its day parked at a job site running equipment, that's a tall order.

Every regen cycle that fires mid-run is wasted fuel, and every EGR-related limp mode event is a truck that can't do its job.^[1] When the truck is billing by the hour, both of those hurt.

Why PTO work and idling get in the way

Here's the catch for a chassis-cab truck. Power Take-Off (PTO) and/or Stationary Elevated Idle (SEIC) must be disabled in order to initiate Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) cleaning.^[2]

Read that one again if your truck runs a dump bed, a crane or a hydraulic pump. The filter can't start cleaning while that equipment is running off the PTO.^[2]

So what gives first, the job or the filter? Either way you lose time, and time is the one thing a working truck never gets back.

What Should You Expect During Installation?

You plug the delete tuner into the OBD-II port and follow the instructions, then pull the DPF, CAT, and EGR hardware.^[1] The delete pipe bolts in place of the factory DPF/CAT section, and the EGR delete kit seals off the passages and reroutes coolant flow, with no cutting or welding for most applications.^[1] All delete kit instructions are sent to you by email after purchase.

Loading the tune before any bolt comes out

Tune first, hardware second.^[1] It's the same logic as unplugging a saw before you swap the blade. Give yourself a quiet stretch when nobody needs the truck, because rushing this part is how a simple job turns into a long one.

Fitting the delete pipe on a chassis-cab frame

Remember the fitting work from the top of this guide? This is where it shows up. Hang the pipe loosely and check it against the frame before anything gets tightened.

Measure twice, trim once. A few minutes of test-fitting beats an afternoon of undoing your own work. Keep the old hardware in labeled bags as it comes off, and you'll thank yourself later if anything needs a second look.

What to have on hand

Jack stands, a solid socket set, penetrating spray for stubborn exhaust bolts and a second set of hands make the day go a lot smoother. Have your usual exhaust tools within reach too.

The EGR side and the instructions you receive

Read the instructions through once before the truck goes up. On the EGR side, work through the steps in the order the guide lays them out. Take your time on the coolant side of that job, and check for leaks before you call it finished.

Got a question halfway through? Stop, put the wrench down, and reach out before you guess.

Should You Order the Cab and Chassis Bundle for Your Truck?

The choice comes down to body style and model year. For a cab & chassis Ford from the 2008 through 2019 model years, the Cab & Chassis Ford Powerstroke Full Delete Bundle is the kit to run. Most customers report a 2–5 MPG gain and drop DEF refills entirely.^[1] Shipping is free.^[1]

Who this bundle is for

If you run a cab & chassis Ford inside that window, the decision is mostly made for you. Your job is getting the year right and setting aside the time to do the install properly. We'd rather you spend an extra minute confirming your year than rush it and wait on a swap.

Running a standard pickup instead? Then look for a kit built for your body style, because this one is built for cab & chassis configuration.^[1]

What owners report afterwards

Most customers report a 2–5 MPG gain.^[1] Treat that as a report rather than a promise. Judge it on your own truck, your own load and your own work.

Still, for a workhorse that earns its keep, that's real bang for your buck. It's the kind of upgrade worth doing right the first time, for the long haul.