Best 6.7 Cummins Delete Kits: What Actually Fits Your Truck

Why Does the Model Year Decide Everything Here?

Because the exhaust behind a 6.7 Cummins is not one design. Hanger positions, pipe routing and the length of the run all moved during this engine's production, and none of it is visible from outside the truck. Two trucks that look identical in a car park can take completely different hardware.

This engine has been a Ram option for a very long time, and that is a long time for a badge to stay still while everything behind it moves. That is exactly what happened here.

Here's the deal. The engine kept the name. The plumbing did not stay the same. Aftertreatment hardware moved, sensor bungs moved, and the frame mounts a system hangs from moved with them.

So when somebody says "it's a 6.7 Cummins" they have told you about the engine and almost nothing about the part you need. That is not pedantry — it is the single most common reason a box turns up that will not bolt on.

Three things move between generations, in the order they will bite you:

- Pipe routing and length. The path from the turbo outlet rearward is not the same truck to truck. A section that clears a crossmember on one chassis fouls it on another. - Hanger positions. The factory mounts are welded to the frame in specific places. A system is built to those positions and there is no adjusting your way out of a mismatch. - Cab and bed. Regular, extended or crew; short bed or long. These change the length of the run, and cab and chassis trucks are a different animal again.

Go read your door jamb sticker before you shop. Not the year you bought it. Not the year on the title if it sat on a lot. The model year on the sticker is the one the catalogue is organised around.

What Actually Turns Up on the Pallet?

A full exhaust system: sections of straight pipe that replace the factory aftertreatment section, plus the clamps and hardware to hang it on the existing mounts. It is heavy, it is long, and it is entirely mechanical. There is no software in the box.

Let's break it down, because "delete kit" gets used loosely enough to cause arguments.

What we sell here is exhaust. Straight pipe from the turbo back or the downpipe back depending on the system, in four-inch or five-inch diameter, replacing the aftertreatment section the factory put there.

That is the product. Pipe, clamps, hardware.

What is not in there: any calibration, any programmer, any handheld. The exhaust is metal and the engine control module is software, and they come from different places for different money. Any listing that implies one box covers both has told you something untrue about how these parts work.

We would rather say that on the way in than let you find it out with the truck already in the air.

Which 6.7 Cummins Exhaust System Fits My Year?

Three year ranges and four systems. Find your model year in the list and that is your part. Each name links straight to the product page so you can check the fitment against your own truck rather than taking our word for it.

4" Full Exhaust System | Ram 6.7L Cummins 2013-2018

The 4" Full Exhaust System covers the 2013 through 2018 model years.

The 4" Full Exhaust System for 2013-2018 starts at $699.00.

4" Full Exhaust System | Ram 6.7L Cummins 2019-2024

The 4" Full Exhaust System covers the 2019 through 2024 model years.

The 4" Full Exhaust System for 2019-2024 starts at $699.00.

5" Exhaust DPF Delete | Dodge Ram 6.7L Cummins 2007.5-2012

The 5" Exhaust DPF Delete covers the 2008 through 2012 model years.

The 5" Exhaust DPF Delete for 2008-2012 starts at $849.00.

5" Full Exhaust System | Ram 6.7L Cummins 2013-2018

The 5" Full Exhaust System covers the 2013 through 2018 model years.

The 5" Full Exhaust System for 2013-2018 starts at $799.00.

Four Inch or Five Inch — Which Should You Take?

About a hundred dollars separates them where both are listed for your year. What the bigger tube buys is volume and tone, not a horsepower number anybody can stand behind. Take the four-inch for the tighter tuck and the lower price, the five-inch if the sound is the point.

This is the only real choice on the page, and only on the middle years.

Bigger pipe is bigger pipe. A five-inch system carries more volume than a four-inch and it sits deeper doing it. That is the honest mechanical story at this level, and anybody telling you more than that off a spec sheet is filling gaps with enthusiasm.

Take the four-inch if you want the more common setup, the tighter tuck underneath, and the lower price. That is most people and there is nothing timid about it.

Take the five-inch if the sound is what you are here for. Own that as the reason — it is a good one, and dressing it up as a power decision just sets you up for disappointment when nothing on the dash changes.

Go and listen to a couple of trucks running both before you spend the money. Fifteen minutes at a meet beats any paragraph we could write, and it costs nothing.

One thing the diameter does not change: where the truck stands legally. That is identical either way and it is the next section.

Where Does the Law Actually Stand on This?

This is the section most sites skip or bury. We're putting it in the middle of the article, where you'll actually read it.

Section 203(a)(3) of the Act prohibits tampering with emissions controls, and also prohibits making and selling products with a principal effect of bypassing, defeating, or rendering inoperative emissions controls.^[1]

The Act's prohibitions against tampering and aftermarket defeat devices are set forth in section 203(a)(3) of the Act, 42 U.S.C. § 7522(a)(3).^[1] That is the federal rule, and it isn't ambiguous.

The Act's prohibitions on tampering and defeat devices apply for the entire life of vehicles, engines, and equipment.^[1] So an older truck and a second owner change nothing at all.

Now the part people get wrong most often. There is no exemption under the CAA for vehicles used only offroad or only for racing.^[2] There is no legal pathway to convert a motor vehicle to a competition-use vehicle exempt from the tampering prohibition.^[2]

And the definition is broader than people expect. The term "motor vehicle" means any self-propelled vehicle designed for transporting persons or property on a street or highway.^[3] Your truck was designed that way at the factory, and parking it doesn't undesign it.

What's the compliant route for a truck you drive on the road?

- Ask for CARB Executive Order parts. Look for a part-specific CARB Executive Order number on the part itself, and check that the number covers your make, model and engine family rather than assuming a brand-wide approval. - Ask about SEMA Certified Emissions parts. Treat this as a certification pathway a manufacturer can use to demonstrate a part does not increase emissions, not as a shortcut around anything. - Ask your shop about emissions-intact tuning. Calibration work that leaves the aftertreatment hardware and the onboard diagnostic monitors doing their job is the route that keeps a plated truck where it needs to be.

If your truck wears plates and sees public roads, work down that list with your installer. We'd rather point you there than sell you the wrong thing.

Be careful with one more thing, because it gets repeated wrong all over the internet. Every so often a change in federal posture gets reported as though it had opened a door for removing emissions equipment. Read any such report against what the sections above actually say, and notice whether the report is describing repair and restoration to original configuration or describing removal. Those are different subjects and only one of them is usually what the underlying document is about.

Treat any claim that federal policy now permits a delete on a registered vehicle as something to verify at the source rather than something to act on. We are not going to summarise those documents for you here, because a summary is exactly where this kind of claim gets bent, and the sections above are the position we will stand behind.

What Does This Do to Your Warranty?

Treat a delete as grounds for the manufacturer to deny an emissions or powertrain claim and to treat the emissions warranty as void.

There's a nuance worth knowing, though, because it cuts slightly in your favour and most articles get it backwards. A warrantor is not precluded from denying liability where the warrantor can demonstrate that the defect or damage was so caused.^[4] Read that one twice, because the burden sits with them rather than with you.

What they can do is deny the specific claim they can tie to the part. On emissions hardware that connection is not a hard one for them to draw.

So an aftermarket air filter isn't going to cost you your engine coverage. Removing the aftertreatment is a different conversation, and it's one to have with yourself before the wrench comes out.

What Should You Have Ready Before You Call Us?

Four facts, and a fitment conversation takes a minute instead of a week: the model year off the door jamb, the cab and bed configuration, whether it is a pickup or a cab and chassis, and whether anybody has been in the exhaust before you.

Get these in front of you and we can answer in one reply.

- The model year off the door jamb. Open the driver's door and read the sticker. Photograph it while you are there; you will want it again. - Cab and bed. Regular, extended or crew, short bed or long. This sets the length of the run and it is not a detail. - Pickup or cab and chassis. Genuinely different trucks behind the cab. A pickup system does not transfer to one, whatever the badge says. - What has already been done back there. If somebody has been in the exhaust before you, what is bolted up now may not be what left the factory, and the new parts have to mate to what is actually there.

Send those four and you will get a straight answer, including the answer that we do not have something for your truck. We would rather lose the sale than process a return on a part that was never going to fit.

And take the same four facts to whoever else you are shopping. A seller who can answer fitment from them has catalogued their parts. One who asks you to measure something, or says it will probably work, has told you they do not know.

How Long Does the Install Actually Take?

Worth being straight about this, because "bolt-on" gets used generously in this industry.

A full exhaust system is a mechanical job on a lift or on good stands. You're separating the factory aftertreatment section, dealing with fasteners that have been through several winters of road salt, and hanging a new run of pipe on the existing mounts. Penetrating oil the night before isn't optional advice, it's the difference between an afternoon and a weekend.

The realistic list of what you want on hand:

- A way to get the truck up safely, and enough working height to swing a length of pipe. - Penetrating oil, applied early and applied twice. - A plan for the fasteners you're going to round off, because you'll round off at least one. - A second set of hands for the hang. Pipe is awkward more than it's heavy.

Sensors and the engine control module are a separate conversation from the pipe, and we're not going to blur the two to make this sound simpler than it is. The exhaust is the exhaust.

What Is Specific to the Cummins Platform?

Cummins engines have been an option in Ram pickups since 1989.^[5]

The inline six is the reason people keep these trucks, and it is also the reason the parts conversation is more forgiving here than on some platforms.

Physically, the exhaust run on a Cummins truck is a long straight shot down one side, which is why the systems are simpler than the equivalents on a V8 with two banks to merge. That works in your favour on install day.

Where it catches people out is the sheer length of the production run. This engine family has been in these trucks for decades, the badge has stayed remarkably consistent, and the hardware behind it has not. A part that fits one truck with the same name on the fender can be wrong for another by an inch of hanger spacing.

The other Cummins-specific trap is displacement. There is more than one Cummins engine in the world and more than one in these trucks over the years. A part listed for one displacement does not fit another, and "it's a Cummins" is not enough information to order against. Our own catalogue join treats displacement as decisive for exactly that reason.

What Arrives in the Box, and What Does Not?

We'd rather over-explain this than have you open a carton and start counting.

Engine calibration is a separate product from a separate specialist, bought separately. No hardware on this page changes what your ECM is doing.

Labour is yours to arrange. These are parts, shipped to you or to your shop.

Consumables are worth asking about rather than assuming. Gaskets, clamps and hardware vary by product and the product record is the place that answer lives.

If a listing elsewhere reads as though one purchase covers all of that, read it twice. Usually the specified half is the hardware and the rest is a conversation you have after the money has moved.

Why Do We List Year Ranges Instead of an Engine Name?

You'll see plenty of listings that name the engine and stop there. We don't, and the reason is boring rather than noble: we got tired of processing returns.

A range on a listing is a promise about physical mounting. It means somebody has confirmed that the part lines up on the trucks inside that range. A listing without one is making no promise at all, and the cost of discovering that lands on you at the point where the truck is already in the air.

The engine name is the least specific fact about your truck that anybody could use to sell you a part. Two trucks can carry the same engine and take completely different hardware behind it, because the chassis, the cab configuration and the mounting points moved even when the engine did not.

So when you're comparing us against another seller, check whether the listing commits to a range. If it doesn't, ask the question before the card comes out.

What Happens If You Need Us Afterwards?

A short note on how this works in practice, because the buying experience on parts like these is mostly about the conversation around them.

Before you order. Send the four facts above and ask directly whether we have something for your truck. If the honest answer is that we don't, that is the answer you will get. We would rather lose a sale than process a return on a part that was never going to fit, and there is no version of this where guessing helps either of us.

While it's in transit. Check the carton against the product record when it lands, before the truck goes up on stands. Five minutes with a parts list beats discovering a shortage with the old hardware already off.

During the job. If something doesn't look like it lines up, stop and message us rather than persuading it into place. Nine times out of ten it's an orientation question with a two-line answer. The tenth time it's a fitment problem we need to know about, and forcing it makes that harder to sort out, not easier.

Afterwards. Tell us what the install was actually like. Half of what we know about how these go on came from customers telling us where the instructions were optimistic.

The Bottom Line

There is no best 6.7 Cummins delete kit in the abstract — only the one built for your year. Read the door jamb, find that year in the list above, pick your diameter if your range offers both, and you are done deciding.

Read everything on this page as sold for closed-course competition and off-road use on vehicles not registered for highway use, and read that off-road designation as one that does not protect a buyer who fits a part to a registered truck.

Thanks for reading. If you are not sure which range your truck falls in, send us the year and we will tell you straight.